[chris] Life in BsAs

Greetings, all. It's been a crazy couple of weeks here in Buenos Aires. I thought life would calm down a bit once the show got underway, but so many seemingly once in a lifetime opportunities have come up that I just couldn't let myself rest. I've been out at late night puppet cabarets, La Bomba de Tiempo shows (a massive percussion orchestra), and been roused from sleep numerous times by the drums and fireworks of (often) club-wielding protesters. (There are traffic-choking protests every day in the center of BsAs). Been mulling over inscrutable Borges passages with gourds of steaming mate, which is best when it tastes like a handful of earth. Off to my friend Oscar's favorite so-called "underground" dance hall for "Evil Tango", in which a 10+ piece orchestra rips Gardel and Piazzolla classics to pieces. Some swilling of Malbec at touristy (yet still delightful enough) tango shows. Had my camera stolen by crackheads (I think). Sampled, semi-accidentally, grilled brains and glands, before bussing out into the pampas (the grasslands of central Argentina) where I was set upon by bottle rocket frenzied teenagers and stray dogs (there are packs of dogs everywhere here). Still walking for miles through the city at night with my digital recorder capturing sounds and meditating on my radio show ideas, and struggling, struggling with this lightning fast Spanish.

I'd thought I could simultaneously rest and take in the culture here, but Buenos Aires does not rest. To know this city you absolutely must stay up all night. I'm pretty acquainted with some other cities that like to think they're on a 24 hour schedule (NY, Berlin) but Buenos Aires has them all beat, hands down. If you're hungry at 2 or 3 am, you can walk in to a restaurant and find it completely packed with exceedingly well dressed older porteños (Buenos Aires residents) gorging on enormous steaks, and washing them down with double espressos. In Texas, bars close at two am. Here, it's not uncommon for clubs to waive the cover before 2:30 am, because sensible people only really get there at 4am or so.

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Now that the show has packed up and gone back to NY (just three days ago), the rhythm of my life has changed. I am suddenly alone in this sprawling city, slipping from cheap hotels with suitcases full of audio gear. I've met some interesting characters, found some new parts of the city to explore, and have bought a ukulele (upon which I can now play a scorching Happiness Is A Warm Gun). Now it's time to upgrade to a fancier hotel for a few days, one with reliable wireless, and most importantly, one which is passably quiet, so that I can record my Round 4 entry in peace.

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